Gypsetters Guide to Paris

July 31, 2015 posted by The Gypsetters Net in Gypsetters Guide

Whenever I go to Paris I often always catch myself saying “je rentre à Paris” instead of the more obvious “je vais à Paris”. For those who speak French, you will know that the major difference is that instead of simply “going” to Paris I usually say I am “going home” to Paris. Yes I was born in Manila, have absolutely no French heritage, but because I spent the most formative years of my life in Paris, the City of Lights its truly like a second home to me. It was there I discovered myself, my independence, fell in love, got my heart broken, danced on tables, got lost in streets, relished magical encounters, fell in love all over again, got engaged, forged friendships, lived life to the fullest… Whenever people ask if I would go back and live there again, well I honestly say no… that chapter of my life has passed, today’s Paris will never be “my Paris” and just as well. But much like the Parisians who have this strong love / hate relationship with their city, I still love those cobblestone streets with all its palpable energy with every bit of my heart and every time I go back, it’s like I have a different energy and I’m the me that’s always supposed to be. I’m in my absolute element. I let the city embrace me like a prodigal child and I voluntarily indulge in it’s warm welcome – grumpy waiters and all.

It’s been a long time in the making and finally here it is, my Gypsetters Guide to Paris, with everything I believe you may need to know to experience the city as it should be – not from the outside looking in but to wander and get lost, to sit in its sidewalk cafés, to feel its creative and historic energy. From how to choose an apartment to favorite hotels and restos, bars and shops… All you need pour la vie parisienne. 

Love and Light, Stephanie

Why Go: “Because Paris is always a good idea.” – Audrey Hepburn in Sabrina

What to Pack: Contrary to what the popular imagination would like us to believe – that one should wear dainty, pristine dresses while nibbling on a macaron in the Laduree tea room, Paris is all about that je ne sais quoi chic. A little disheveled, a sometimes distressed, a touch of simple and understated luxe and yet always sexy. Forego the loud prints and vibrant colors in favor of muted neutrals like beige, grey, black, blue and all variations of camel and cream… the only thing that’s meant to be bold in Paris are your political opinions and sometimes, when applicable, a pouty swipe of red lipstick, preferably sans rien d’autre.

 For women it’s all about that silk blouse dripping on their skin or that ultra soft, velvety cashmere sweater that’s two sizes too large and falls suggestively off your shoulder. Pair it with an a-line cottom skirt or tailored shorts in the summer and denims or tights in the winter. Dresses are almost never moulante or body hugging, and being overdressed in the evening is frowned upon. One must never overdo or try too hard, it’s all about that balance. Tight on top, loose below; tight mini-skirt with an oversized pull; sparkles with sober denim.

Shoes are either sensible and extremely worn in – Repetto ballerines or brogues, metallic summery sandals with ankle straps and vintage appeal, ankle boots in cognac leather, stan smiths… or they are gorgeous, well heeled and worn the entire day with confidence and ease even if you are carrying two full armloads of groceries up six flights sans ancenseur. A parisienne friend of mine once told me “I don’t wear flats to walk to work then change before entering the office. In the morning I commit to a look, I commit to the shoe. Yesterday was des baskets and today it’s des escarpins. J’assume.”

Le Parisien has a rotating wardrobe of blue and white cotton shirts, scruffily rolled up, thin cotton t-shirts that cling to his athletic, but not beefy build, their favorite cashmere sweater and a marinière. He pairs this with slim trousers, sometimes rolled up at the ankles or beat up jeans and his signature rumpled sandy brown locks and barbe de 3 jours.

Certain iconic pieces can be found in the wardrobes of both le parisien and la parisienne: depending on your tendance perso (are you a 16e and 7e BCBG or and Etienne Marcel BOBO or outright hipster of Canal Saint Martin?)

1. a good blazer or well cut jacket

2. a perfecto or leather motorcycle jacket

3. a hooded parka

4. la marienière or nautical stripes

5. a white shirt, cotton for men and silk for women

6. ripped jeans because they were really worn in and not because you bought them like that

7. le trench worked into your regular wardrobe, worn without prep nor pretense

The best reference is definitely the deliciously entertaining and mildly annoying book How to be a Parisian.

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Stay: The only real way to visit Paris is to live it and to do that you must forego fancy hotels and rent an apartment. There’s nothing more satisfying that going down to the corner boulangerie to pick up some croissants and baguettes for breakfast. The variety of offers can be daunting so here are some tips to make it easier.

– Start by researching on the different neighborhoods and see what kind of Paris you want to experience.

– Set a budget based on your needs and length of stay. Do you need 2 bedrooms or will a cozy studio do?

– Consider the season, if you are visiting in summer, you may want to stay at a hotel or in a high floor with ventilation as most flats do not have air-conditioning. You don’t want to be stuck, roasting in a ground floor studio who’s windows must always be closed unless you want to stage a free show for all who pass.

– Consider the style of the apartment and how recently has it been renovated, check if there is actually a toilet in the apartment. Your quaint chamber de bonne on Ile-Saint-Louis may seem romantic and ideal but having to run across a dark, cold hallway in the middle of the night just too pee is not so much.

– Check if there is an elevator and if not, can you handle 6 flights of stairs everyday? This may not be such a great idea when traveling with kids.

– How accessible is it to the Metro and all the other places you want to visit? That stunning loft with balcony in the no-nonsense 17e may not be so great if you’re a first time tourist and are looking to just wander the streets.

Here is a quick guide based on my personal experience as to the best districts to stay during a visit to Paris. This doesn’t mean that the other areas aren’t nice but it’s what is most practical, charming and interesting.

Left Bank:

Saint-Germain-des-Près – Jardin de Luxembourg – Carrefour de Buci – Odéon – 6th Arrondissement and some parts of the 7th

My personal favorite, it’s not a chaotic touristy area and yet each corner has gorgeous pockets of history and famous cafes where intellectuals and artists used to spend their time philosophizing about the world. It’s a place where actual Parisians do still live along with students, it’s filled with great shops and restaurants frequented by locals. It’s the ultimate confluence of that relaxed elegance that Paris is all about. This “quartier” is extremely easy to get to with 3 major Metro lines running through it – 4, 10 and 12. As well as a major taxi stand on the corner of Rue de Rennes and Boulevard St. Germain and some pretty amazing bus lines like 95 and 96 that take scenic routes while getting you to major places across the city like the Louvre and Opera Garnier.

Place Monge – Rue Mouffetard – Panthéon – Jardin des Plantes – 5th Arrondissement

With its more quaint village like feel, it’s no wonder that I chose to live in this area. Once you avoid the crazy touristy traps of St. Michel and move further to the east, you’ll find yourself charmed by the markets, student cafes and the stunning Jardin des Plantes. It’s not as accessible in terms of Metro stations as the 7 and the 10 lines are not as well connected, but it is a great place to stay if you intend to hang around for more than a week. To live out you Parisian living fantasies. Having l’apero on a terrace by Place Contrescarpe before walking down Rue Mouffetard and grabbing some rotisserie chicken and artisanal cheeses in the market. Or have some delicious baklava and Moroccan mint tea at the Mosquée de Paris in the afternoon before enjoying a leisurely stroll in the Jardin des Plantes.

Right Bank:

Le Marais – Rue Vieille du Temple – Place des Vosges – Rue des Francs Bourgeois

Stunning architecture ranging from pre-Haussman medieval times to 17th and 18th century “Hotel Particuliers” and the strangely appealing modern Centre George Pompidou, the Marais is a little bit of everything. There’s a great mix of interesting museums like Musée Carnavalet and Musée Picasso, a rich and diverse history from the old Jewish quarter around Rue des Rosiers and the stunningly royal Place des Vosges, alongside unique boutiques and luxe brands it makes for a great place to stay for Parisian first timers. One can wander the streets and be amazed by all the little surprises the city of lights will reveal to you. Not to be missed are having a falafel from Chez Marianne (not l’As de Falafel) and coffee and scrumptious tarts at Chez Carette overlooking la Place des Vosges after a leisurely afternoon shopping around Rue des Francs Bourgeois and Rue Vieille de Temple.

Louvre Rivoli – Saint Honoré – Opera – Place des Victoires

Because of its strategic location next to some major historic sites and one of the most well known luxury shopping streets in the world, this area has a great concentration of hotels and is easily accessible by various Metro and Bus lines notably line 1. There are many theatres in this area, the most famous being La Comedie Française, which also means there are quite a few restaurants and bistros that stay open late or serve early (perfect for the jetlagging traveler!) Place Vendome and Place des Victoires are particular stunning around Christmas when the strung up lights lend an extra feeling of romance and enchantment. Not that Paris needs any more of that but when it’s cold and grey, a few extra sparkles is always welcome. There are also some beautiful little galleries or covered streets and passage ways like Galerie Vivienne and Galerie Vero Dodat. So yes it is quite touristy but it still retains a certain charm and peace compared to the crazy Champs Elysées. Evenings in fact can be very calm as most buildings are occupied by offices. Locals know that there are some great Japanese restaurants around Rue Saint Anne.

Montorgueil – Etienne Marcel – Arts et Metiers

The Marais which has in recent years gentrified due to its prime location and confluence of historic and social attractions has become virtually inaccessible for real Parisians to live in. Instead you’ll find them living, eating, shopping, café-ing and drinking adjacent to it around Montorgueil. Bust out your ripped jeans, clingy tees and perfectos so that you can blend in with the beautiful and hip (not hipster!) locals. Their favorite accessory is a casque or motorcycle helmet casually carried by the strap with the same pride as one would a sac à main de luxe. This place has some of the best bars, hideaway restos and cool cafes in town. Shopping isn’t bad either with edgier brands like April 77 and hyper specialized mixed brand boutiques.

Oberkampf – Canal Saint Martin – 10th and 11th

Chemise à carreaux? Full beard? Vintage specs and a preference for vins bio and menus that read more like a geographic itinerary than a meal – Asparagus from Nogent with jamon iberico from Jabugo and extra virgin olive oil from Provence AOC and DOP baslsamico from Modena – then this area is the place for you. Discover a grittier and more creative side of Paris. Thanks to rather inexpensive rent this area is that bastion of the local “foodies” and the anti-michelin bistronomie movement. Relaxed settings and excellent food paired with craft cocktails and well curated wine lists at affordable prices. Even if you may not stay here, it’s well worth exploring one afternoon, getting in touch with your inner hipster (pronounced: eeps-stair) and enjoying a makeshift picnic as the sun sets along canal Saint Martin.

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Hotels:

I am not even going to attempt to give a comprehensive list of hotels in Paris as it would be virtually impossible! The variety of choices is endless from the uber luxe to the trendy right down to budget hostels. Quite frankly I’ve only stayed in hotels a few times in Paris because most of my time there, I was cozily installed in my flat. Nonetheless I have a few recommendations from trusted friends as well as one I recently discovered.

Since it is my favorite quartier, it comes as no surprise that I would recommend one of the most iconic hotels on the left bank near L’École des Beaux Arts in Saint Germain – L’Hotel. A stunning hotel particulier with a beautiful winter garden and striking circular atrium, this establishment exudes all the old world bohemian glamour that the left bank was known for in the turn of the 20th century and right into the artsy and intellectual era, housing the likes of Salvador Dali and Frank Sinatra. It is most famously known for being the residence of poet and playwright Oscar Wilde who proclaimed on his deathbed “I am dying beyond my means.” The rooms are decorated with antique pieces but are equipped for the modern era with iPod docks, flat screen TVs and an espresso machine. The bathrooms are simply divine done up in luxurious granite and marble, sensual fabric curtains and striking Volevatch fixtures. A stay at L’Hotel is as deliciously indulgent as its décor.

Where? 13 Rue des Beaux Arts, 75006

“La Villa Saint Germain,” exclaims our stylish traveller, Stephanie Kienle Gonzalez. “Location, location, location! A Small contemporary find in the heart of St. Germain!” Stephanie also recommends Relais Christine “for an old world vibe on the left bank and its gorgeous small courtyard entrance.” It is also recommended by businessman, Richard Tiu because “you can walk to the Louvre and it’s very near nice parks where you can run.”

Where? 29 Rue Jacob, 75006

“Modern funky interiors with a nice inner courtyard for breakfast, the Best Western Opera Diamond is very affordable compared to Saint Germain hotels and a really good deal considering the location and the size of the room,” shares ADB diplomat Antonio Ressano. “It’s in a good location near metro lines, walking distance to Opera and Madeleine. It felt like a very well managed hotel!”

Where? 4 Rue de la Pépinière, 75008

“Hotel Montalembert is a gem situated in the heart of the 7th. A fresh sophisticate, it exudes a modern French vibe that can’t be beat.” Says real estate executive Marco Antonio. His wife Jackie also suggests “The super chic Hotel du Petit Moulin designed by Christian Lacroix in the Marais which is just steps away from cool shops and fun restos. Quaint and stylish you’ll never want to leave the area.”

Where? 3 Rue Montalembert, 75007

“I personally love the cozier hotels and the 4-star Hotel Thérèse is in my perception top in terms of price and quality,” says Marco Kleijn, Country Manager of L’Occitane BENELUX who often travels to Paris for work. “You really feel like you are in Paris as it’s a five minute walk from the Louvre and it’s very near La Bourse as well walking distance to Le Marais.”

Where? 5-7 Rue Thérèse, 75001

Avid luxury traveller Arlene Cu loves the classic Plaza Athenée for “the exclusive, personable and hands on service and the attention to detail in the décor and finishing of the hotel. I love how it is newly renovated but it still retains the old grand feeling!”

Where? Plaza Athénée 75008

Love / Lust:

What’s not to love about being in Paris? Honestly in the end where you stay doesn’t really matter because you’ll spend most of your time getting lost in its captivating streets. I am however lusting over the Duplex Terrace Eiffel Tower Suite of the Shangri-La. I think the only thing that can pale in comparison to that view would be the upcoming reopening of the Ritz. I wonder what they did to spruce up Coco Chanel’s suite. That is one place I am dying to see!

Eat:

I will exonerate myself from all blame as early as now. That list that ensues is not meant to be a best of but truly a collection of oldies but goodies that I always keep coming back to. On that note please take a look at Chef Aaron Isip’s favorite food joints comprising of places he likes to eat in on his off days as well as fancy treats.

For those of you who have sweet cravings check out Carmela Villegas’ preferred Parisian patisseries.

Le Square Trousseau

Nestled in a small, calm square not far from the Bastille is this gem. Stunning Belle Epoque interiors and a really great terrace, this place serves up French bistro classics with a contemporary freshness. You must definitely have their whole artichoke with vinaigrette, the escargots are to die for, a great steak tartare, a delicious mountain of fries and the very best cute little buttery fried frogs legs. (photo taken from Rajo Laurel’s blog post)

Where? 1 Rue Antoine Vollon, 75012

L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon

Make sure to go to the original one in the 7th, because while I enjoyed the neo- japanese flavors of the outlet in Publicis by the Chams Elysees, no one can be the original. Must eats are definitely anything in season, the foie gras and langoustine ravioli, the bone marrow toasts, the quail and the most amazingly tender baby lambchops in the world. Don’t forget to just dive into that small bowl of his famous potato puree and swim in that butter heaven. Desserts are equally delicious but if you happen to eat there during the summer do get anything with fraises des bois or wild strawberries.

Where? 5 Rue Montalembert, 75007

Relais de l’Entrecôte

That sauce. That sauce. Those fries swimming in that sauce. Need I say more? The best outlet is still for me the one in Saint Germain. Beware of fakeys.

Where? 20 Rue Saint Benoit, 75006

Vagenende

For an achingly fresh seafood platter and the best sole meunière of my life. So good it made me cry. Served old school and filleted tableside. When we used to go it was this beautiful old school place, with those servers and a maître d’hôtel from a bygone era. The ones who could open a bottle of win in under five seconds and serve you with efficiency, flair and panache. Suffering a sad modernization of its store front a few years ago (all of Paris is going this horrendous generic contemporarisation of awnings and interiors) thankfully the beautiful turn of the century Parisian interiors classed as a “historic monument” in 1983 survived.

However, according to my friend who had loved it the first time he ate there, his most recent experience was that the food was still delicious but the service a little more gruff. He noted it was a younger less experienced waiter and not one of the old timers. I do believe it’s still worth going to. Do not however that on the months that don’t have a “R” in it (May, June, July, August) they don’t serve oysters. But if you happen to be there for summer, have some plump shrimp with their homemade mayonnaise and that scrumptious sole.

Where? 142 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006

Le Verre Volé

A favorite recent discovery when Aaron took me out to dinner during a work trip in Paris. Hipsters who know their stuff run this little joint. The seasonal menu is cooked simply and to perfection without too many extravagant adornments and allow them to choose the wine for you. It’s a delightful experience despite the huffy Parisian service. For more details read my article in the Philippine Star.

Where? 67 Rue de Lancry, 75010

Miznon

Whole roasted cauliflower, roasted chicken with a bit of tahini and garlic or fragrant lamb kebabs or creamy, tangy white tuna with fresh parsley and preserved lemons in the fluffiest of pita breads. It was so darn good the last time I went to Paris I ate there three times. Oh did I mention that I was only in town for two nights? Yep. That darn good. Go either slightly before noon or after 2 because it gets packed.

Where? 22 Rue des Ecouffes, 75004

Al Dar

Off the tourist radar on a charming side street near Maubert Mutualité in the 5th this tiny Lebanese café was my absolute favorite place for lunch when I lived there. I used to go at least once or twice a week. They have the best chicken shawarma with whipped garlic lemon sauce that I have ever tried. Their tahini laden dips and taboule are also fantastic but save room for their wonderful baklava. Go for lunch on a Wednesday and try to catch the cute little market on Maubert Mutualité before eating. If the few café tables are full, take out your shawarma and walk all the way down the street. You will hit the Seine and find yourself right next to Notre Dame.

Where? 8 Rue Frédéric Sauton, 75005

Babylon Bis

Open from 8pm to 8am this mythical hole in the wall serves the BEST darn chicken in the whole universe. Don’t go for dinner, go out, get sloshed and rock up to the door with a big smile and when the bouncer asks you what you are doing here – just happily say poulet braise! (poo-lay bray-zay) Tropical African beats in a zany and dark atmosphere this joint has served the likes of Snoop Dog and Rihanna. You must order the poulet braisé avec les trois sauce, rice and les alokos or fried plantains. If you’re feeling extra greedy order the accras de morue or fried cod dumplings. Just a word of warning, they don’t like you to share the chicken but trust me it’s so damn good you wouldn’t want to anyway. Bring cash, sometimes the credit card terminal doesn’t work. They “Patronne” can be quite grumpy or aggressive but it’s all part of the charm, just laugh it off, dance to the Caribbean beats and chances are she’ll start laughing with you.

Where? 34 Rue Tiquetonne, 75002

Alfredo Positano

My husband and I love eating here mainly for one dish – their insalata di polipo – it’s delicious! Not such a fancy place but they serve great pizza (their truffle one is yum with real fresh shaved truffles when in season) and their arrabiata is delish. Perfect for when you are tired of French food and want something comforting and familiar.

Where? 9 Rue Guisarde, 75006

Marché des Enfants Rouges

This old market in le Marais has been converted in to a foodie haven. With stalls serving everything from perfectly crisp tempura to Caribbean eats and Moroccan tagines, it’s the best place to go with friends for lunch when you’ve got a hangover. It’s a really great selection of artisan made and ethnic cuisines.

Where? Marché des Enfants Rouges 75003

Georges

This Costes classic has snooty service and overpriced fashion food BUT it has the very best view of Paris. Hands down. I still like to take newcomers there. The lofty modern space is enclosed in glass with spectacular vistas of the city. Situated on top of the Beaubourg building, it’s not too high up that Paris seems so tiny, the height almost makes you eye to eye with the City of Lights’ most famous monuments – the Eiffel Tower, Sacre Coeur, Notre Dame and so on. Go for cocktails on the terrace and if you do decide to stay for dinner my two favorite dishes was the Hakkasan Fish and the “Tigre qui pleure” steak. It’s worth going to just once for the view. Oh and did I mention all the wait staff are drop dead gorgeous?

Where? Place Georges Pompidou, 75004

La Cremerie

It’s only open for dining on certain hours on certain days – how oh so parisian – but the indulgent selection of artisan ale cheeses, terrines and pâtés are to die for. Absolute heaven. It made it to my top ten foodie moments of 2013 published in the Philippine Star, read it here.

Where? 9 Rue des Quatres-Vents, 75006

Coffee Parisien

One of my favorite place sot eat at as soon as I arrive in Paris because hands down for me it is the very best burger EVER. I know it sounds strange but this american-ish diner with a frenchy touch has these amazing bacon cheeseburgers with beef that is juicy but not oily from good grade french beef, real good tasty cheddar, crisp not over salty bacon and a delicious bun. Trust me it’s soooo good. I never get a headache or tummy ache after and I’ve had quite a few of these babies in my lifetime. Best with a coca light  and a twist of lime.

Where? 4 Rue Princesse, 75006

Drink:

La Palette

This to me is the ultimate Parisian Left Bank haunt, on a sunny day the terraces are packed with chic local students and old timers, puffing away on their cigarettes and drowning themselves in Chateau Minuty. During colder months, spend hours inside on a gritty banquette fighting the wintery blues with a lot of red. Make sure you’ve got your best black sweater on as well as your convictions and be ready for some heated debates on current events, politics, philosophy or religion. It’s so delightfully parisien.

Where? 43 Rue de Seine, 75006

Terrace du Théâtre de l’Odéon

A huge terrace that practically occupies the entire square infront of the Theatre de l’Odéon. The menu is pretty generic, so is the food but they usually have a great, good value rosé which is perfect for catching up with friends right before dinner. There’s great energy and beautiful surroundings but I’d only recommend it during warm sunny days. It’s not the most efficient service so do order your second bottle as soon as you receive your first. It’s a nice place to have an afternoon coffee as well.

Where? Place du Théâtre de l’Odéon, 75006

ECC, Ballroom, Prescription

A few years back I had quite a few drunken nights in the original Experimental Cocktail Club when the owners, notable Olivier, used to still man the bar themselves. It was here I was introduced to the treacherously delicious Vieux Carré – one of the most difficult drinks to make and one of the most potent cocktails ever. Since then these guys have expanded their craft cocktail empire, even branching out to New York and London. They have also most recently opened a hotel. ECC is the most well known and most lively, I love prescription for the apothecary touch and velvety interiors plus the unbeatable (yes Saint Germain again!) location. Ballroom is great for larger groups as you can have dinner upstairs at the Beef Club and head down to the bar where they serve these giant punch bowls.

ECC: 37 Rue Saint-Sauveur, 75002 Paris

Ballroom / Beef Club: 58 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 75001 Paris

Prescription: 23 Rue Mazarine, 75006

Candelaria

Push the back wall of this ghastly, fluorescent brightly lit taco shop and enter the warm inviting world of flickering candles and tequila. This place serves great tequila and mescal based cocktails with a lively atmosphere.

Where? 52 Rue de Saintonge, 75003

La Peña

All my friends during my cordon bleu days were Latinas and one of our favorite things to do, especially in winter, was to spend a small fortune on the vestiaire of this salsa bar so that we could peel off our clothing and dance to the rhythmic and intoxicating latin beats. I still often go back when I just want to have a dance. The great thing about La Peña is that everyone there is there to dance so guys will come up to you and ask you to dance old school style. After a song or two you say thanks and part ways and then go dance again with someone else. Salsa, meringue, reggaeton, cha-cha, cumbia… you name it! Not quite Parisian but a fun long standing institution.

Where? 3 Passage de la Petite Boucherie, 75006

Le Perchoir

The original in the 11th has this amazing boho vibe. Cocktails and beer are served under this giant teepee, with a mish mash of ottomans, pillows, wooden crates and benches, picnic tables and ragged bar stools. You’ve got a great crowd, amazing music and fantastic views of Parisian rooftops. Le Perchoir on top of BHV is a little more polished and loungey, with a really great crowd and a truly stunning view of the cities best monuments and edifices. Worth the 30 minute wait in line if you haven’t called to reserve or eat there.

Where? 14 Rue Crespin du Gast, 75011

Nuba

Hip and happening this rooftop bar is great for celebrations. Start with sunset cocktails, head inside for a decent dinner and then stay on to party. The best would be to check out their schedule of events and choose if there’s something particularly interesting happening like a good DJ or a sponsored event.

Where? 36 Quai d’Austerlitz, 75013

Shop:

What I love about Paris is their selection of home grown brands that have this distinct mélange of understated chic, boho and rock. They are not inexpensive but not necessarily über luxe either and become really affordable during sale season. The pieces may seem simple but the truth is they are extremely well made and done in premium fabrics. Most of my things from these brands have lasted me over ten years. Here are my favorites: Maje, Iro, Sandro, Bel-Air, American Retro and Zadig et Voltaire. For shoes I really like Boot Shop on 20 Rue du Four, 76006 and Colisée Paris  for basics made in real leather. Paris also has great mixed brand boutiques and one of my favs is Allison on Carrefour de Buci. For more classic styles check out Comptoir des Cotonniers, Gérard Darel and Tara Jarmon. I also love Princesse Tam-Tam for lingerie.

For men my husband also has his favorites. He always goes to Loding for good value for money leather shoes and belts as well as nice cashmere sweaters and socks. He is also a shirt hoarder and stocks up on them whenever he’s there at Café Coton, Coton Doux, Stanbridge and Arthur et Fox on 159 Boulevard Saint Germain 75006 or 40 Rue Vignon 75008. We also just recently discovered this great multi brand store with amazing interiors called Slowear. They have this amazing brand of trousers called Incotex with great fabrics and super cuts. If you’re looking for stores with a little more edge check out our recent post Hip, Hip, Paree! 

For children’s wear I love Petit Bateau, Jacadi, Le Phare de La Baleine, Bon Point – especially when it goes on sale and great value for money is the brand Bout’Chou that you can find in Monoprix. There’s an amazing children’s bookstore called

For home and decor please read Alicia Sy’s favorite shops in Paris. I trust her impeccable taste!

I have two places I like to shop in that sort of group everything together, from great little home stores, fashionable boutiques, stand alone unique brands, etc…

Left Bank: Saint Germain – Rue de Rennes – Rue Bonaparte – Carrefour de Buci – Rue du Four – Rue du Vieux Colombier – Rue de Grenelle

Right Bank: Rue Vieille de Temple – Rue des Francs Bourgeois

If it’s a rainy day I like to head to Le Bon Marché.

Paris is a great place to buy cashmere; it’s like their favorite material of all time. Eric Bompard is a grande classique, I also like La Boutique de La Maille on Rue du Four but the ultimate value for money are the Galeries Lafayette cashmere sweaters, sometimes as low as 79 euros with a wide selection of colors and styles.

Do: There is just too many things to do in this town, even if you’ve lived there all your life you can discover amazing new things by simply turning a street corner. Paris doesn’t reveal all her secrets at once so it makes it the best kind of city to explore on foot and in a spontaneous manner. My favorite way to explore? Choose a quartier or a metro stop, head there and just amble about on foot letting your instincts guide you. Sit in a café for coffee, watch the world go by, feel at home. If you get lost simply hop on the next metro station or hail a cab home.

When I lived there I used to love taking the bus because you’re not cramped under ground and you get to see the beautiful city go by. My favorite bus line is the 95 as it goes up Rue de Rennes and crosses the Seine through the Louvre and the Tuileries then makes its way through the Palais Royal and up the stunning Boulevard de l’Opera to the Opera Garnier.

Do go on a picnic. If the weather is great buy a bottle of wine, some good cheese and charcuterie and enjoy yourself by the seine, or Canal Saint Martin or on le Pont des Arts or in one of the many gardens around. My favorite? Picnic on the Champs des Mars while the stunning Eiffel Tower watches over you.

Vicki who was just recently there and did the tourist rounds has her suggestions of attractions not to be missed on her 48 Hours in Paris guide.

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Book: The book that has become my writer’s bible is to me the ultimate book for anyone visiting Paris – A Moveable Feast by Ernest Hemingway. Given to me as a graduation gift by my eldest brother, it set the tone of my first few months discovering the city. Emile Zola has some amazing works describing pre-war Paris, many of which are used often in history classes as a source on how life was back then, notably those in his Rougon-Macquart series of novels.

If you want to get a sense of what Paris was like in the late 19th century read the contrasting Au Bonheur des Dames, which describes the world of a department store patterned after Le Bon Marché and Le Ventre de Paris talks about the gritty reality and goings on of the famous Les Halles market, including how cattle used to parade down the boulevards in the wee hours of the morning to be slaughtered for the butchers. Other interesting titles include Pot-Bouille which recounts the activities of residents in a Parisian apartment building. If you are feeling extremely ambitious and romantic then you may want to tackle Marcel Proust’s epic A la recherché du temps perdu or In search of lost time where in his extremely verbose involuntary memory style he describes beautiful nooks and crannies of Paris during La Belle Époque. To get a sense of the splendid leafy and romantic setting, this article in France Today is an excellent guide to Proustian Paris. For something light and contemporary, peppered with that dry british humor try the whole Merde series by Stephen Clarke starting with A Year in the Merde.

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OST: Josephine Baker, Edith Piaf, Serge Gainsbourg or any paris jazz café compilations like Saint Germain Des Près Café or Café de Flore. Don’t forget that during the golden age of Jazz during the 20’s and 30’s Paris was THE hotspot. So definitely a selection of old school jazz should be on your playlist. I love the jazz manoush music of Django Reinhardt, which is great example of the melting pot of cultures that Paris is and how it influences the music. Putumayo has some great selections. Not into the old school? Stream some Radio Nova or radio FIP for a great contemporary mix of electro and world music.

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In the know: Do NOT by any means ever order a cappuccino in a café. You may as well be walking around with the word “tourist” emblazoned across your forehead. Order a “café crème” instead but only if it’s before noon. Past noon order “un café” ou “un déca” – an espresso or a decaf espresso. If you must have milk ask for a “noisette” (nwa-zet) – an espresso with a bit of foam. If you order water, a coca-cola or Perrier and you absolutely need ice you may try your luck. However, if the server comes back and tells you “c’est déjà très frais” – it’s already very cold – chances are they are too busy to come back and bring you some. For a very strange reason, ice is a rare Parisian commodity.

Always say “Bonjour!” when you enter a store and “Au revoir” (awr-vwah) when you leave. This is essential to the French. If you want to be extra friendly with them a good day after bidding goodbye with a “Bonne journée!” (bonn zhour-nay).

If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast. – Ernest Hemingway